For all the times I hear, “geez, I wish time would slow down.” I also hear, “I wish summer would hurry up and end.”
And all that while there is still the best tomato harvest yet to be picked off the vine.
I would argue America has a presence problem. We’re always eyeing dessert before we’ve finished our last bite of dinner. We’re shopping the iPhone upgrade while the ones in our pockets still call and text.
We’re so busy wanting the next thing, we forget to appreciate what’s right in front of us. And honestly, Summer deals out some pretty beautiful content. Longer days, golden evenings, tank tops with no jackets, long walks, lightening bugs, and ice cream dates. She’s worth savoring, at the very least until she’s properly over.
So, let’s make slaw. It requires one piece of special equipment, something I think every kitchen needs. The mandolin. I’m not for kitchen specialized equipment in general. I’m a sharp knife and wooden spoon kind of girl. My counter space is limited and my cabinet space is even less. We already store the ice cream maker on wire racks in the basement because it, along with many serving platters, exceeds the space in my kitchen.
But I reach for the mandolin frequently enough and it is small enough I think it belongs in every kitchen. And it need not be expensive. Mine is a brand called Swissmar and is under $70 on Amazon. Incidentally, I’m pretty sure it’s the same brand Anthony Bourdain recommends in Kitchen Confidential, so we’re in very good hands.
The mandolin is a uniquely special tool because it can enhance the texture of most dishes for those of us who are either short on time or lack chef-level knife skills. When used correctly it yields a uniform slice that few of us could achieve with a knife, turning the texture of salads and slaws into something memorable. My only warning in using a mandolin is please use the protective guard. The blades are sharp.
I’m actually not sure if it’s the fine texture of the cabbage or the tangy dressing I absent mindedly created years ago, but this slaw became a top seller without even trying. I lazily made it as an accompaniment for Sloppy Joe’s and barbecue chicken sandwiches, mostly because there’s often cabbage in our fridge due to its lengthy shelf life and I’m always looking to up our vegetable intake even on nights when I choose fairly pedestrian main courses.
So long as you commit to using a mandolin for the slicing of this slaw you will discover it takes less than ten minutes to create and is a real slaw’s slaw, everyone loves her. The slaw people will demand because it goes with everything. The slaw that is vibey enough to bring to a function, but chill enough to be served alongside whatever bunned sammy you’re dishing out in these late days of summer (I refrained from putting summer in all caps, you should be proud of me).
The slaw that is endlessly open to adaptation; shredded chicken, fresh herbs, purple cabbage — it’s all fine. The slaw that swims in such a tangy, light dressing it will make you forget the goopy store bought ones. The slaw you can continue to serve right into the dark days of Ohio winters.
Let’s just not skip summer, mmmmkay? Like this slaw, she’s worth savoring.
”But First, Food” columnist Whitney Kling is a recipe developer who lives in southwest Ohio with her four kids and a cat and is developing a food memoir that’s ever-nearing completion. If she’s not playing tennis or at a yoga class, she’s in the kitchen creating something totally addictive — and usually writing about it.
Basic Coleslaw
This recipe begs to be thrown on top of a hot sandwich for some added crunch but it can also hold its own as a side to cookout fare. The slaw is most crisp within an hour or two of being made.
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Serves: 6 as a side
3 T mayonnaise
3 T apple cider vinegar
1 T maple syrup
1 t Kosher salt
½ t black pepper
½ head of cabbage, cored and thinly sliced with a mandolin
¼ red onion, thinly sliced with a mandolin
2 large carrots, peeled and shredded on the large holes of a box grater
- In the bottom of a large bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, vinegar, maple syrup, salt, and pepper until smooth.
- Add the cabbage and other vegetables and mix until coated.
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