Celeriac, also known as celery root, has long been a favorite in Europe. It was mentioned 2,800 years ago in Homer’s Odyssey.
Though widely cultivated across Europe, celeriac is little known in the United States. One reason for its scarcity here is its gnarly grimy appearance.
NPR radio calls celeriac the world’s ugliest vegetable. About.com calls it an ugly brown hairball.
My recipes are based on MOON’s Boulder Belt celeriac, which weigh about one-third pound and produce two modest portions. You can double or quadruple the recipes to serve more.
For all recipes, you need to peel or cut away the rough skin. Your best bet is probably a paring knife.
The most common celeriac dish in Paris is céleri rémoulade. Prepared with raw celeriac, it is typically served as a first course.
For céleri rémoulade, coarsely grate a peeled celeriac in a food processor or Mouli grater. Add one tablespoon each of lemon juice, mayonnaise, and mustard, plus a pinch of pepper and garlic powder.
Store in the refrigerator until ready to serve. Serve over a bed of lettuce or with parsley.
If you are looking for a more fortifying winter celeriac dish, you can bake it in a gratin with potato. In France, a gratin is baked in a shallow dish with a browned crust.
Peel a potato and a celeriac, and leave them whole. Cover them with water, and boil for about 10 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Butter a shallow baking or gratin dish. Grate one-half cup of a Swiss cheese, such as Gruyere.
Slice the partially cooked potato and layer in the dish. Slice the celeriac and layer it on top of the potato. Season with a pinch of pepper.
Spoon one-quarter cup of tomato sauce on top of the vegetables. This time of year, good quality bottled or canned tomato sauce is a better bet than local fresh tomatoes that are well past their prime.
Sprinkle the cheese over all. Bake uncovered for around 15 minutes, or until the top is browned but not burned.
If you make a larger gratin, divide all of the ingredients in half and layer them twice. You will probably have to increase the baking time to around 30 minutes.
Celeriac from Boulder Belt Eco-Farm is available at MOON Co-op Grocery, Oxford’s consumer-owned full-service grocery featuring natural, local, organic, sustainable, and Earth-friendly products. MOON Co-op, located at 512 S. Locust St. in Oxford, is open to the public every day. www.mooncoop.coop.
About the Author