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Tiny filled pumpkins

Tiny pumpkins, sold as Munchkin or Jack Be Little, can be baked whole, then scooped out and filled. Apple-filled pumpkins are run under the broiler to caramelize the brown sugar on top. The cranberry-filled pumpkins are easier; make the filling ahead and spoon it into the warm pumpkins.

• Makes 8 servings
• 8 Jack-Be-Little pumpkins, scrubbed

FOR APPLE FILLING:

• 8 medium apples such as Cortland, Jonagold, Ida Red, Jonathan or Golden Delicious
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
• large pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• 2 tablespoons water
• 8 teaspoons unsalted butter
• 8 tablespoons dark brown sugar

FOR CRANBERRY CHUTNEY:

• 1 1/2 12-ounce packages fresh cranberries
• 1 cup raisins
• 1 cup chopped onion
• 3/4 cup chopped red bell peppers
• 3 cloves garlic
• 3 small, dried, red chiles, crumbled
• 1 1/4 cups cider or red wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup molasses
• 1 cup firmly packed brown sugar
• 3/4 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1 teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Place pumpkins on a baking sheet, stem end up. Pierce once with a sharp knife. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until easily pierced with a fork. Let cool until they can be handled. Cut a slice across the top, including the stem. Set caps aside and scoop out the seeds and stringy membranes inside the pumpkins.

Spoon 2 to 3 tablespoons of the apple compote into each hollowed out pumpkin. Top each with 1 teaspoon butter and 1 tablespoon brown sugar. Broil, 6 inches from the heat, until the sugar melts and caramelizes. Just before serving top each pumpkin with its cap.

If using the cranberry filling, just spoon into the warm pumpkins.

TO MAKE THE APPLE FILLING: Peel and core the apples and cut into chunks. In a large skillet, combine the apples, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and water. Place over medium low heat and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until a thick, chunky compote is formed. Stir often and mash the apples with the back of a spoon as they soften. The compote can be made ahead.

TO MAKE THE CRANBERRY FILLING: Combine all the ingredients in a stainless steel or enameled pot and simmer uncovered over very low heat for 1 1/2 hours until thick. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. Store extra chutney in the refrigerator and serve it with poultry or pork.

Approximate nutritional analysis per serving, with apple compote: 211 calories, 4.7 g fat, 11 mg cholesterol, 2 mg sodium.

Approximate nutritional analysis per serving with cranberry chutney: 112 calories, 0.3 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 181 mg sodium. Miniature Jack Be Little pumpkins filled with cranberry chutney and apple compote.

RICE WITH PUMPKIN AND RAISINS

This Spanish recipe comes from the island of Ibiza and uses a short grain rice such as Arborio.

• Makes 4 servings
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
• 1/2 pound fresh pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled and diced
• 1 tablespoon raisins
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
• 10 ounces short grain rice
• Pinch of ground cinnamon
• Pinch of sugar
• 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, optional

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Heat the oil in a heavy bottomed pan and cook the garlic until golden. Add the pumpkin, raisins, salt and pepper and stock. Bring to a boil and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the rice, cinnamon and sugar and return to a boil. Cover and place in the oven for 17 minutes until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed.

Let stand, covered, for 3 to 4 minutes before serving. If desired, sprinkle each serving with cheese.

Approximate nutritional analysis per serving (not including optional cheese and salt to taste): 143 calories, 4 g fat, 0 cholesterol, 78 mg sodium.

(Recipe adapted from the Quick Afterwork Vegetarian Cookbook by Judith Ridgeway (Fisher $12.95).

PUMPKIN WITH GINGER DRESSING

This recipe has its origins in Japan. A ginger-spiked dressing is drizzled over baked pumpkin.

• Makes 4 servings
• 2 1/2 pound pumpkin, quartered, peeled and seeded
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 3-4 tablespoons lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger
• 3 tablespoons dry sherry

Cut the pumpkin quarters into 1-inch chunks. Place in a single layer in a lightly oiled baking dish and drizzle with the oil. Stir to coat the pumpkin well.

Bake the pumpkin for 30 to 40 minutes in a preheated 400 degree oven until tender.

Meanwhile combine the remaining ingredients.

Remove the cooked pumpkin from the oven and drizzle with the ginger dressing.

The pumpkin can be served warm or at room temperature.

Approximate nutritional analysis per serving: 166 calories, 7 g fat, 0 cholesterol, 418 mg sodium.

WORTHWHILE WINTER SQUASH

• Makes 6 servings
• 1 1/4 pounds butternut or acorn squash, peeled, seeded and cut into thin slices
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus 2 tablespoons melted
• salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• a few gratings of nutmeg
• 1 cup heavy cream
• *1/3* cup Madeira*
• 1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs
• 1/2 cup walnuts

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

In a large skillet, saute the squash in 3 tablespoons butter until it begins to brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir in the salt, pepper and nutmeg.

In a small bowl stir together the cream and Madeira.

Put half the seasoned squash into a greased 1-quart baking dish. Pour half of the cream mixture over it. Repeat with the remaining squash and Madeira cream.

Combine the bread crumbs, walnuts and melted butter. Sprinkle over the squash, reaching to the edges. If making ahead, refrigerate at this point, but return to room temperature before baking. Bake the squash for 45 to 50 minutes (60 if it has been refrigerated), until tender and the topping is brown.

*You can use a dry sherry, though the taste will not be the same as Madeira.

Approximate nutritional analysis per serving: 389 calories, 31.4 g fat, 82 mg cholesterol, 264 mg sodium.

GOLDEN FRIED SQUASH

In The Food of Southern Italy, Carlo Middione writes of a preparation of fried banana squash that can be cooked in garlic oil and served with a shower of fresh mint. In other parts of the country it may then be topped with a sweet and sour dressing and served at room temperature. Or the squash slices may be breaded, fried and topped with mozzarella cheese. It can be served as a first course or a side dish with poultry, lamb or pork.

The simplest version may be one of the best treatments of squash and pumpkin.

• Makes 6 servings
• 1/3 cup olive oil
• 3 large cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
• 1 pound squash or pumpkin, seeded, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch slices\ salt and pepper
• about 30 mint leaves, washed

OPTIONAL BREADING:

• flour
• 2 large eggs, beaten
• bread crumbs
• 1/2 pound mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced

Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Add the garlic and fry it over low heat until golden and aromatic. Remove the garlic and fry the slices of squash in the hot oil for 2 or 3 minutes, until they get little dark brown blisters on the bottom. Use a spatula to turn and fry on the other side. When slightly brown, sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Drain on paper towels. Chop half of the mint leaves and scatter over the squash. Use the rest as garnish.

For alternate preparation: Dip the thin squash slices in flour, then in beaten eggs and coat them with bread crumbs, patting them in well to adhere. Fry the slices in hot oil, and when browned, top with thin slices of mozzarella cheese. The heat should be sufficient to melt the cheese a little. If not, put the fried slices on a cookie sheet and put them into a 500-degree oven for five minutes.

If you want to try the sweet and sour version, fry the unbreaded squash and set aside, then wipe out the skillet. Add a mixture of 3/4 cup red wine or balsamic vinegar, 1/4 cup chopped mint leaves, and 2 teaspons sugar to the skillet. Simmer to reduce the vinegar slightly, then pour over the cooked squash. Let cool to room temperature.

Approximate nutritional analysis not available.

ROAST CHICKEN WITH BUTTERNUT SQUASH & PEARS

In this one-dish meal butternut squash and pears cook alongside chicken. The recipe is from Diet Workshop's Recipes for Healthy Living by Lois Lindauer and Sally Sampson (Doubleday, $25). It is a staple used by a colleague.

• Makes 8 servings
• 1 teaspoon dried rosemary
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 teaspoon dried sage
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 2 3-pound chickens, rinsed well in cold water
• 1/2 large butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cubed
• 2 Bosc pears, peeled (if desired), cored and cubed
• 1 small red onion, peeled and quartered
• 6 garlic cloves, peeled

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Combine the herbs, salt and pepper. Rub inside and outside the chickens. Place on a rack in a large open roasting pan; surround with the squash, pears, onion and garlic. Roast for 60 to 70 minutes until the juices run clear at the thigh joint. Cover with foil if the chicken gets brown too quickly.)

Approximate nutritional analysis per serving: 285 calories, 6.94 g fat, 90.7 mg cholesterol, 357 mg sodium.

ROASTED WINTER SQUASH SOUP

If you've had pumpkin soup, squash soup should be familiar. In this recipe adapted from California Chef Bradley Ogden's Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner (Random, $18), onions and apples add to the natural sweetness. I added a dollop of creme fraiche but he suggests a garnish of toasted walnuts for even more autumn flavors.

• Makes 4 to 6 servings
• 2 pounds winter squash
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter or olive oil
• 1 cup coarsely chopped yellow onion
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary or sage, pinch of allspice
• 1 small apple, cored and diced
• 4 cups reduced salt chicken stock
• fresh lemon juice
• kosher salt to taste
• 1/4 teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper
• 1/4 cup creme fraiche or sour cream

Cut the squash in half and remove the seeds and stringy material. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the squash cut side down on a greased baking sheet and roast for 35 to 45 minutes until very soft. Remove from the oven and let cool.

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan; when foaming but not brown add the onion, rosemary and allspice. Reduce the heat, cover and let the onions cook gently until they are tender. Add the apple and stock. Bring to a simmer and cook until the apple is tender, about 15 minutes.

When the squash is cool enough to handle, scoop out the pulp. Add the pulp to the soup and simmer for five minutes. Puree the soup in a blender until very smooth. Strain through a fine-meshed sieve.

When ready to serve, reheat over moderate heat just until it reaches a simmer. Do not let it boil. Adjust seasoning with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Ladle into individual bowls and top with a spoonful of creme fraiche.

Nutritional analysis per serving, based on six servings: 156 calories, 6.1 g fat, 14 mg cholesterol, 647 mg sodium.

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