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The case of the stalling Toyota

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James D. Halderman, Straight talk
James D. Halderman, Straight talk

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By James D. Halderman, Straight talk Updated 5:04 PM Friday, November 6, 2009

Wheels: Linda writes by e-mail:

“You had an article recently about cars stalling when they come to idle. Something about the computer needs to be “relearned.”

I have a 1999 Toyota Camry. It doesn’t do it all the time; some days and weeks are fine, then it starts to act up and will do it for days. 

Whenever it is getting ready to do this, I notice a distinctive smell — like gas mixed with bad eggs or sulphur. Can you offer any insight?” — Linda

Halderman: The column you read and your problem are not related, in my opinion. It appears that there is a fault with the fuel pressure regulator or other fuel system components that allow extra fuel into the engine. Ask a shop to diagnose the problem. Not only will fixing the problem help prevent the engine from stalling, but it will improve your fuel economy, making the repair cost-efficient.

Wheels: Bert of Dayton asks: “You said you changed to synthetic oil for everything after getting back from a conference years ago that included a seminar on engine oil. I think you also meant even your lawn mower. I think the owner’s manual for mine specifies SAE 30.  I’ve been using Castrol SAE 30 in my mowers for years.  So I went to the parts store to look for some synthetic. They had no SAE 30 that was a synthetic. Is there some grade like SAE 10W-30 I should use instead of the SAE 30 the manual recommends?”

Halderman: I use Mobil 1 SAE 10W-30 in my four-stroke cycle mower. My newer mower operator’s manual specifies the use of SAE 10W-30 but you are right, many mower manufacturers recommend straight SAE 30. An air-cooled engine runs hot so it will be like an SAE 30 soon after start and even start easier.

I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic in my vehicles and mower since 1994 and the engines looks like new inside.

If you are using a two-cycle engine, then you should be using specific low-ash, two-cycle SAE 30 oil.

Do not use oil designed for use in a four-cycle engine in a two-cycle engine. In a two-cycle engine, the oil is mixed with and is burned with the gasoline. In a four-stroke cycle engine, the oil in not burned and the engine operates on gasoline alone like a car engine.

James D. Halderman is an ASE-certified master technician, a member of the Society of Automotive Engineers and the author of 12 textbooks. Submit your automotive care questions to Halderman via e-mail at jhalderman2@juno.com, or write him in care of: Wheels, Marketing Publications Department, Dayton Daily News, 1611 S. Main St., Dayton OH 45409.

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