Mexican restaurant professes authenticity, but misses the mark

Greg Lynch/Staff photo Texas fajitas, with shrimp, chicken, and beef, at Milbertos in Hamilton.

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By Teri Horsley, Staff Writer 5:55 PM Thursday, April 7, 2011

HAMILTON — Sometimes it’s best not to expect too much.

As a food writer who loves all things Mexican, I tend to get very excited when a new Mexican restaurant opens. Recently however, that excitement turned to disappointment after I dined at Milibertos in Hamilton. Opened in January, the restaurant sits on Ohio 4 in the building formerly occupied by Taco Bell and is billed by the owner as authentic Mexican cuisine.

“I think our food is true Mexican, bringing the Southern California taste to Hamilton,” said Ana Moreno.

The biggest problem I had with the food is that it wasn’t fresh and it was expensive. I had the shrimp burrito which was filled with grilled shrimp, bell peppers, tomato, onion, rice and cheese. While the shrimp was OK, the vegetables were stringy and tasted as if they had been around for awhile. The rice and cheese were almost non-existent. The wrap that housed it was burned black with grease, and it was served without sides, silverware, or even a plate.

My friend had a burrito called the Police, honoring a a police officer in Maryland where the owners used to have a restaurant. Filled with beef, onion, lettuce, cheese and sour cream, the meat was tough and full of gristle, and again, the vegetables were stringy. Topped off with two Pepsis, the order came to almost $15. Chips and guacamole are available, but for an extra $3.75 I decided to pass.

Milibertos offers dinner specials daily featuring tilapia, burritos and chimichangas.

A buffet features a variety of vegetables, meats and salsas, and desserts include flan, sopapilla, and a cheesecake burrito. Moreno said most of her business comes from carry-out, although the small, brightly colored dining room seats 35.

In-house catering is available off the menu and there is limited seating outside the restaurant. Carry-out orders can be called in or faxed, and most are ready within 10 to 15 minutes. The same menu is offered throughout the day.

Contact this writer at tlhrsly@cinci.rr.com

How to go

What: Milibertos

When: 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week

Where: 2021 S. Erie Highway (Ohio 4) Hamilton

Cost: Burritos average from $2.60 to $5.90, Chimichangas are $6 and $7. Tacos are $2.50 to $5, and combos (served with rice and beans) are $5.80 to $9.

More info: (513) 863-7777, Fax for orders (513) 863-0575 or www.milibertosmexicanfood.com.

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