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DINING out

Review: Chinese Lantern has the 'wow' factor

Contributing Writer

Friday, January 25, 2008

Rich shrimp and Tofu fish (Australian sea bass) are two oriental gourmet entrees that a customer can only get at the Chinese Lantern restaurant in Hamilton.

That's because co-owner and expert chef Peter Chung created these two dishes only for his restaurant.

Rich shrimp and Tofu fish are signature dishes that reflect the beauty of the presentation at this restaurant, as well as the creativity of the chef. Not to mention the flavor. Wow!

Chef Chung is uniquely inventive with his delicious culinary creations. He uses fresh ingredients and everything is homemade — even the sauces and broth.

"He even makes the fish broth," said co-owner, hostess and wife Sherry Chung. "Peter has cooked all over the world, even for high-ranking military dignitaries."

Customer Susan Pater, of Hamilton, called the Chinese Lantern "Hamilton's best-kept secret," because of the wonderful gourmet flavors and high-quality ingredients used in this family-owned, family-oriented restaurant.

"Peter makes the best homemade potstickers that I've eaten," Pater said.

"Potstickers are a filled pasta — a Chinese dumpling, kind of like Italian ravioli, and I've eaten them all over, and his are the best in the world. Peter makes the pasta for these, hand-rolls them, and then he cooks them in a unique way. They're browned first, then baked and steam-cooked to get just the right flavor and consistency."

Popular entrees at the Chinese Lantern, which seats 64 people, are General's chicken, Hong Kong chicken and shrimp teriyaki.

This restaurant specializes in four styles of cooking: Cantonese, Hunan, Szechuan and limited Vietnamese dishes. Cantonese cooking depends on the quick, stir-fry method and light soy sauce to keep the natural state of the vegetables, meat and seafood. Szechuan and Hunan are known for sharp flavors and strong spices. Ginger, fresh garlic, hot peppers and Szechuan peppercorns are liberally used as seasonings in this style.

The Szechuan and Hunan dishes are prepared medium "hot," but a customer may request "spicy hot" or "mild." The restaurant accommodates to customers' tastes. But a customer who wants his own adapted dish may want to call ahead so he won't have to wait.

A must-have drink at the Chinese Lantern is a pot of hot tea. It leaves the perfect taste on the palate and is served at a pleasing temperature.

(And this reviewer knows her tea. I've even had tea in Japan.)

Chef Chung's father owns a tea farm in Taiwan, so Chung knows his tea, too. It is, however, too expensive to bring his father's tea to the restaurant.

Other things a customer should know about this cozy restaurant is that the servings are huge, the decor puts you in an oriental mood, there is a bar — and a fortune cookie is only 15 cents.

Sherry Chung added that there is very little MSG used in the dishes — only a small amount in certain dishes. She also said that if a customer has a peanut allergy or any other kind of food allergy, that they should tell them ahead of time so they can create the dish without it.

Once a customer has dined at the Chinese Lantern, he'll probably go back again to experience that warm, inviting atmosphere — and the reasonably priced food.


How to go

WHAT: Chinese Lantern

WHERE: 965 Main St., Hamilton

WHEN: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch and 5 to 9 p.m. for dinner Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch and 5 to 10 p.m. for dinner on Friday, 5 to 10 p.m. on Saturday, closed Sunday

MORE INFO: (513) 863-2392

CRITIC'S CHOICES: Entrees: Shrimp teriyaki, Rich shrimp, Hong Kong chicken, Tofu fish (Australian sea bass); Appetizers: Potstickers, Crab Rangoon and Imperial egg rolls; hot tea

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