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Home > Blogs > Uncorked > Archives > 2008 > November > 05 > Entry
The gods of wine have smiled upon me
Tom and Karen Davis and their son Stephen
In recent weeks, the gods of wine have showered me with good fortune. Serious good fortune.
What else besides divine intervention could possibly explain sitting in front of two glasses of wine and trying to decide which goes best — the 1982 Le Pin or the 1974 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon — with the beef tenderloin?
Or on another occasion, sipping a 1975 Chateau d’Yquem with quite possibly the best food-and-wine pairing I’ll ever have in my lifetime?
(Note to out-of-town readers: yes, these events occurred in humble ol’ Dayton, Ohio. Come by and visit sometime. We might surprise you.)
Several weeks back I attended a dinner put together by Tom Davis, the University of Dayton professor and wine expert who leads a wine appreciation class when he’s not teaching management information systems. I’ve known Tom for almost two decades and first wrote about him and a tasting he organized in the Dayton Daily News many years ago. Among local wine aficionados, Tom is a legend.
Tom has been threatening for a couple of years to put together a gathering sometime when his son Stephen was in town to open and enjoy that aforementioned ‘82 Le Pin, a legendary wine from the Pomerol region of Bordeaux. And that’s just what he did, inviting many friends and wine lovers to a private dinner. For good measure, Davis threw in another landmark wine, the ‘74 Montelena Estate Cabernet, from magnum, as well as another ‘74, the Ridge Petite Sirah York Creek, and a smattering of stunning red and white Burgundies, while invitees brought several eye-popping wines — little things like the ‘85 Montelena and the 1982 La Dominique and the ‘97 Sassicaia — as well (the full dinner menu put together by Jay’s executive chef Justin White, and the full list of wines served, can be viewed in “the jump” by clicking on “continue reading” below).
Suffice to say I’ve never had two wines in front of me that surpassed the Le Pin/Montelena duo.
The ‘74 Montelena — the grapes for which came not from Napa but almost entirely from two vineyards in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley — seemed ageless. Its deep ruby color lightened on the edges, but displayed no orange or brown. The nose featured sweet fruit with hints of raisins and iodine, and on the palate, little evidence of its 34 years, with a solid core of fruit balancing the still-discernible tannins. The wine still has a future. (By the way, the winery’s original description of this wine predicted that the “optimum period for consumption” would be “1979-1984.” Oops.)
Words don’t do the ‘82 Le Pin justice. This is a wine that deserves its legendary status (though perhaps not its current auction price, which I won’t include here simply because I don’t even want to think about it). The wine — 90 percent merlot, 10 percent cabernet franc — boasted glorious, complex aromas that blended dark fruits with forest floor and hints of exotic spices. There were new nuances in both the nose and the palate each time I returned to the glass, and they got more compelling each time. The flavors possess an almost ethereal balance, and once swallowed, this wine’s incredible length confirms its status and reputation.
Tom said he wishes he had more bottles to share. So did everyone in the room.
Wines from the Davis dinner
A food and wine pairing for the ages
A few weeks earlier, I enjoyed a similarly revelatory experience. This one involved a 1975 Ch. d’Yquem supplied by a wine mentor of mine who lives in Fremont, OH, and a dish prepared by Anne Kearney, chef and co-owner of Rue Dumaine restaurant in Washington Twp.
Suffice to say that the pairing of the world’s most legendary dessert wine, from a fabulous vintage, with pan-seared foie gras served with Sauternes-poached Ohio peaches (which were in peak season at the time) and candied pistachios, served atop a small slice of toasted bread (or golden pain perdu, for the French among you) that soaked up all of the earthy-sweet foie gras-peach juices, was simply the single best food-and-wine pairing that I’ve ever experienced. The wine was glorious, with a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity, with complex flavors and astonishing length.
‘75 d’Yquem
After those two experiences, I suspect it may be all downhill from here. But I can say I’ve been to the mountaintop, and I have tasted the promised land.
(Top two photos by Sue Kalal, bottom photo by Brent Bamberger)
(Click on “continue reading” if the Davis dinner menu does not appear below)
Tom Davis Dinner
Welcoming Wines
2003 Olivier Leflaive Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume
1996 Gaston Chiquet Champagne Spécial Club 1er Cru
1996 Champagne Bruno Paillard Rheims
Caramelized Onions with Mushrooms in Pastry Cup and Light Greens
1983 Chambertin Clos de Beze Domaine Clair Dau
1987 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Bonneau du Martray
2000 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Olivier Leflaive
Shrimp and Scallop Risotto
1993 Nuits St Georges Domaine Guy Dufouleur
1995 Vouvray Sec Philippe Foreau
1985 Chave Hermitage Blanc
Roasted Tenderloin of Beef with Butter Boiled Potatoes and Fresh Green Beans in a Cabernet Reduction
1982 La Dominique St Emilion Grand Cru Classe Magnum
1982 Le Pin Pomerol
1974 Chateau Montelena Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon Magnum
1985 Chateau Montelena Cabernet
1997 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia
Light Cheese Course
1998 Zind Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl
1981 Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape
1982 Chateau Latour a Pomerol
1974 Ridge Petite Sirah York Creek
Flourless Double Chocolate Cake with Chocolate Sauce
1976 Chateau Climens 1er Cru Sauternes-Barsac
1971 Weingut Johannishof Winkeler Jesuitengarten Riesling Auslese
1970 Graham Vintage Port
Coffee and Espresso
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Comments
By Jim T.
November 5, 2008 6:55 PM | Link to this
Where is the button for a green font (for envy)?